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Dave's Corner

by Dave Connell, Manager, Del Webb Customer Service

Dave's Expertise on Humidity

Is the humidity in your house too dry? Or perhaps too moist?

Chances are you needn't worry about it too much. Worrying about the humidity is an all-season sport. In summer you wipe your brow and explain that humidity, not the heat, is making life miserable. During the wintry season you take your worry indoors for double duty. Here are a few words of advice.

First, consider the needs of your house. It is perfectly true that extremes of humidity can damage it. If the atmosphere is too dry, bookbindings crack, glued furniture joints pull apart and veneered surfaces come loose. If the air is too moist, paint flakes off your walls, mildew spots appear and vapor condenses on your windowpanes, endangering the woodwork.

Most people assume their dwellings are too dry in the winter. In most houses however, excess humidity is the usual failing. Houses are so tightly constructed nowadays that the vast quantities of water vapor generated by everyday housekeeping. simply are sealed in, with no escape. Did you know that mopping and rinsing an 8ft. x 10 ft. kitchen floor puts 2 pounds of water vapor into the air? Cooking dinner for four adds 2.7 pounds more of water.

Dishwashing contributes at least another half pound. How much of this wetting can your home stand? Research at the University of Minnesota has provided some safety standards and guidelines for us to follow:

  • Outside Temps: -20 degrees F or below
    Humidity should be not over 15%
     
  • Outside Temps: -20 degrees F to - 10 degrees F
    Humidity should not be over 20%
     
  • Outside Temps: -10 degrees F to 0 degrees F
    Humidity should not be over 25%
     
  • Outside Temps: 0 degrees F to 10 degrees F
    Humidity should not be over 30%
     
  • Outside Temps: 10 degrees F to 20 degrees F
    Humidity should not be over 35%
     
  • Outside Temps: 20 degrees F to 40 degrees F
    Humidity should not be over 40%

A humidity-measuring instrument, called a hygrometer, can be obtained for a few dollars. If you do not own one, watch your windows for symptoms of excess humidity. When moisture collects on the glass inside you are approaching a high humidity level.


Dave's Expertise on Trees

How much water does a new tree need? This is a good question that is asked frequently. Truth is, there are a lot of right answers because "how much" can depend on "how often." Most experts agree that new tree watering should occur 4 to 5 times per month, simulating frequent, natural rainfall. Five gallons of water will saturate about five cubic feet of the average soil type, which is about the size of the tree well of most newly planted trees. Five gallons once per week is adequate, but 10 will not hurt if water conservation is not a factor. 

What is the benefit of deep root watering? Deep root watering stops wasteful run off and concentrates on the area that matters most. Surface watering often leaves you wondering when you should stop, usually resulting in more time and water than is actually necessary. Soaker hose and slow drip watering methods may soak the surface only, promoting root growth near the surface. Deep root development is essential for strength and drought hardiness when the tree establishes itself and the watering stops. 

Will my sprinkler system take care of my trees? Sprinkler systems are for watering your grass. No deep watering occurs. In most cases, relying on your sprinkler system will result in inadequate surface watering.

Refer to "What is the benefit of deep root watering?


Dave's Expertise, "A word or two about plants"

Buying Perennials 

Some perennials, such as coreopsis and columbine are sold in six packs like annuals because they grow quickly from seed. More often, perennial plants are grown from root divisions of cuttings and are sold individually in peat or plastic pots. As with annuals, look for compact, stocky plants with a bushy crown of leaves. Avoid plants with brown leaves, plants coming into flower, and plants that have weak, gangly stems. 

To remove a perennial from its pot, soak the soil and slide out the root ball, If this proves difficult, cut the sides of the pot, which will make it easier to remove the plant without tearing its roots. Tease the roots apart and plant so that the root ball fits snugly into the hole. Firm the surface with a trowel or with the sole of your shoe to make good soil contact around the roots; then water. 

In the absence of rainfall, newly planted perennials need watering almost every day until they are well established.

Buying Annuals 

If you are buying ready grown annuals at a garden center or nursery, don't buy those that are already blooming. It's better to buy green because these younger plants generally survive transplanting more successfully than those In bloom. Soon, they will recover from the shock and catch up to other plants in bloom. 

Bigger isn't better. Tall, lanky transplants are usually under stress from surviving on the shelf. They may lack water or light and their roots may be pot-bound and too insubstantial to sustain the top growth that results after transplanting. Look for plants that are short and compact, with lots of side branches that can grow and stretch out. 

Feel the soil. If it's completely dry, the plant is probably already under stress. Transplants should have moist soil, with leafy top growth in a deep, healthy green.

Annuals are typically sold in six packs. but they are also sold in flats or shallow containers with up to 24 plants. Flat-grown plants typically intermingle their roots so be careful when you separate them. 

When planting, try to break as few roots as possible. Spread the roots around the hole so they can grow in all directions and water well.

Happy Digging! 


Dave's Expertise, A Little Knowledge Goes A Long Way

Everyone can use a little help these days. How many of these handy tips do you know about?

Sealed envelopes - Put in the freezer for a few hours and then slide a knife under the flap. The envelope can then be resealed.

Permanent marker on appliances/counter tops (like store receipt blue) rubbing alcohol on a paper towel.

Use vertical strokes when washing windows outside and horizontal for inside windows. This will help to determine which side has the streaks. Straight vinegar will get outside windows really clean. Don't wash windows on a sunny day. They will dry too quickly and most likely streak.

Candles will last longer if placed in the freezer for at least 3 hours prior to burning.

To remove old wax from a glass candleholder, put in the freezer for a few hours. Then take the candle holder out and turn it upside down. The wax will fall out.

Don't' throw out all that leftover wine (when is there any?). Freeze into ice cubes for future use in casseroles and sauces.

Use air-freshener to clean mirrors. It does a good job and better still, leaves a lovely smell to the shine.

To remove a stain from the bottom of a glass vase or cruet, fill with water and drop in two Alka Seltzer tablets!


Dave’s Corner "Prudent Facts About "Pruning" 

Pruning is an important maintenance practice for some evergreens. However, pruning can be kept to a minimum by the wise use and proper placement of plant materials in the landscape design. Evergreen plants can be divided into two broad categories. (1) Narrowleaf (needled) evergreens such as pines, junipers, and yews; (2) Broadleaf evergreens such as rhododendrons, hollies and box. The narrowleaf evergreens that generally grow more rapidly than broadleaf evergreens, include many tree forms and are commonly grown for their foliage only. Broadleaf evergreens include many shrub forms and are often grown for their flowers and fruit as well as for their foliage. 

Why Prune? Limit the pruning of most evergreens to the removal of the dead, diseased and mechanically injured wood and to the maintenance of the natural shape of the plants. Formal effects such as clipped hedges, topiary and espaliers require regular attention and special equipment. 

When to Prune: Dead, diseased and broken wood can be removed at any time of year. The best time for general pruning is in late winter or early spring, immediately before growth resumes. Narrowleaf evergreens may be pruned a second time in June before the new growth has matured. It may be necessary to give particularly fast-growing plants an additional light pruning or two during the growing season. Good judgment must be exercised when pruning flowering evergreens so as not to drastically reduce the amount of next season’s flowering wood and pruning should be done as soon after flowering as possible. Severe pruning can usually be avoided if pruning is done annually. 

We’ll talk more specifically on how to prune and the proper pruning tools in next month’s newsletter. 

Dave’s Expertise: Overdoing It, Too Much Humidity Creates Problems. 

Q. “I have a humidifier attached to my forced air heating system. Every time the furnace turns on, a little electronic switch opens a smaller water valve. Water flows over a pad through which air flows. The water evaporates from the rinse pad into the air. BINGO! The humidity starts to rise inside my home. What do I do?” 

A. “Sometimes you can get too much humidity. I have gone to bed with everything just fine. The furnace was humming and the humidifier working just fine. I wake up and it looks like someone turned on a water sprinkler inside my house near every window. 

The cause of the problem is easy to identify. Two things possibly occurred at the same time: the inside relative humidity was climbing and/or the outdoor temperature level dropped. Usually it is the outside temperature drop that temperature down the you condensation humidity a can causes the problem. The inside temperature of the window glass drops as the outside temperature drops. The water vapor in the air begins to condense as the temperature of the glass drops. 

If you have a humidifier, or plan to purchase one, you need to pay attention to outdoor weather. If the temperature is forecast to drop over a period of hours, you may wish to turn down or limit the amount of humidity you are introducing into the air. Many manufacturers recommend that you adjust your humidifier to a setting just before any fog would appear at the edges of the window. Remember, the fog will appear at different outdoor temperatures and different indoor relative humidity. There is no one setting that will work for outdoor temperatures. 

In summary, humidity and temperature are correlated. Turn down your humidifier output as the outside temperature drops, if you don’t want to experience condensation problems. Too little humidity causes static electricity and a drag on fuel bills, but too much can cause damage.”

Dave’s Corner “Use and Care of Hardwood Floors.” 

The warmth and ambiance of wood floors add something special to any décor. However wood floors are not impervious to normal wear and we want you to know what to expect from this selection. 

Cleaning. Sweep on a daily basis or as needed. Never wet-mop a hardwood floor. Excessive water causes wood to expand, possibly damaging the floor. When polyurethane finish becomes soiled, damp-mop with warm water. Check with the hardwood flooring company for cleaning recommendations if your floor has a waterbased finish. 

Wax. Waxing and oil-based products are neither necessary nor recommended. Once you wax a polyurethane finish floor, recoating is difficult because the new finish will not bond to the wax. The preferred maintenance is preventive cleaning and recoating annually or as needed to maintain the desired level of luster. 

Warping. Warping will occur if the floor becomes wet repeatedly or is thoroughly soaked even one time. Slight warping in the area of heat vents or heat producing appliances is also typical. 

Humidity. Wood floors respond noticeably to changes in humidity in your home, especially during winter months when the heat is on. A humidifier helps but does not eliminate this reaction. 

Spills. Clean up food spills immediately with a dry cloth. Use a vinegar and warm water solution for tough food spills. 

In Dave’s Corner - Spring Maintenance Reminders.

As spring approaches, there are a few key steps you can take to ensure your home serves you well through the coming monthsPlease take time to check the following items in and around your home and attend to any that need maintenance:

  • Clean and test smoke alarms and replace batteries
  • Test and reset ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) breakers.
  • Change or clean the furnace filter.
  • Operate the air-conditioning systemIf service is needed, it is more conveniently arranged before the busiest part of the season arrives.
  • Adjust registers and confirm that registers and cold air returns are clear of furniture and draperies.
  • Make certain the airconditioner compressor is clear of debris.
  • Turn the humidifier off.
  • Wash windows and screens, clean weep holes and lubricate tracks.
  • Check garage overhead door, tighten bolts as needed and lubricate springs with motor oilHave other repairs done by professionals.
  • Start and adjust sprinkler system.
  • Test exterior faucets for broken pipes.
  • Clean gutters and confirm that downspouts are clear.
  • Plan your first barbecue.

If you have any questions, refer to your Homeowner Reference Guide or contact Dave Connell at Del Webb Customer Service. 508-224-5955.


© Copyright 2012 Stephen C. Travis, all rights reserved.